The options for backcountry skiing in Argentina are some of the best options in the south. Las Leñas, Esquel, Villa La Angostura, San Martin de Los Andes and Bariloche all offer their own gift to those that love to snowboard and ski. But there is one place that does stand out for a few reasons. Bariloche.

     Bariloche is the northern gateway to Patagonia and with that title has developed some bonuses that go along with a world class destination. From gourmet restaurants to interesting museums, from one of the world’s top ten views (as voted by National Geographic) to an energetic nightlife, Bariloche offers a giant array of culture and activities to its guests. But for those of us that love playing on our boards in the backcountry, Bariloche has one little present that glistens more than those offered by the city’s neighbors. The metropolis is surrounded by the Nahuel Huapi national park. The 1,750,000 acres of protected old growth forests, developed as a natural sanctuary to protect the local flora and fauna, was also influenced by European trekking ideals. A series of mountain huts were created, interlinked by well-maintained hiking trails. The combination of beautiful mountains, welcoming refuges and a lacework of paths has provided the backdrop for and excellent, yet little-known backcountry skiing play zone.

1. Refugio Frey: Probably the most popular off-piste hiking zone in the Bariloche area, Refugio Frey is a perfect place to set up camp for a while and play. The grand daddy of the Bariloche hut system, Refugio Frey is surrounded by a surreal setting. The mountains are rugged like a baby Chamonix, the dense forest resembles Alaska, and descents are world-class. The laborious hike to the hut can either begin by chairlift from the Catedral ski area or by trail, either is more or less a four hour excursion. The log and rock refuge, built in 1957, has the capacity for 40 people, including mattresses and blankets.  From Frey you can climb various chutes or open faces that surround the manned hut. The terrain varies from expert to basic intermediate. The best time of year to guarantee good, safe skiing is September to October.
2. Refugio Challhuaco: a refuge accessed by a year-round dirt road, the area is actually more set up for cross country skiers and people sledding. But don’t let that deter you. Just beyond the area for the masses, the slopes become quiet and open up into different variations of skiing potential. Past the Lenga forest, the terrain opens up and offers open bowls and treeless slopes prime for optimum corn skiing. The hike takes approximately three hours. The terrain is good for intermediate to advanced skiers. Refugio Challhuaco is not an overnight accommodation, thus creating the ski descents to be basic day trips.
3. Cerro Lopez: Cerro Lopez’s open face looks out towards the bustling city center of Bariloche. The huge bowl is only one of the options for backcountry skiers. Accessed via a steep single track trail, the ascent takes between four and five hours. You will pass a small mountain-side restaurant, Roca Negra, which offers the first of a series of spectacular views looking out over the various bodies of water of the Lakes Region. Continuing on the trail, the snow level is usually reached around two hours into the hike. Once you have hit snow there are a few different options. The first choice is a smaller neighboring mountain to Cerro Lopez that offers nicely spaced tree skiing, perfect for when conditions are not at their safest. Moving onward, you continue on towards Refugio Lopez, a large, pink stucco hut that offers shelter and food for 60 people in the summer. Before reaching the refuge you will see a nice chute to your left that offers a worthy spring decent. If skiing an open bowl is more your fancy, then continue to Refugio Lopez. This is the start to the last leg of the hiking trip. From the summit you have a choice of skiing the open area that you climbed up or skiing into a steeper line off the rocky summit. The terrain on Cerro Lopez is available for all level of skiers, depending on where you chose to make your descent.
4. Cerro Ñireco: Cerro Ñireco is another one of those mountains that stares at you when you are near city center. The hill is north facing and is a great spring corn run. It is an intermediate to advanced ski descent. The ascent is pretty straight forward, as long as you can find the right starting point. To access the trailhead, head towards Barrio Pilar. There you will go through a poor neighborhood. Follow the signs to Valle Horible. Following the dirt road almost to the end, you will see a large pig farm to your right. Park in this area. Follow the trail up along the river, crossing the running stream at the water reserve. Walk along the left side of the river for about ten minutes and then veer left, up the drainage of Ñireco. Retrace your ascent route back to the car.
5. Cerro Bayo: Cerro Bayo is a boutique ski area that is located in Villa La Angostura, Bariloche’s sister village an hour away. Using the mountain’s top chairlift, “Lenga”, you can access tons of open backcountry terrain. The mountain doesn’t have much of an advanced skier population so the out-of-bound areas stay untracked days after a storm. The closest worthy shot is a mere ten to fifteen minutes from the top of the chairlift. The first ski descent is one of many out a ridge line that leads to different neighboring mountains that, with a little climbing, lead back to the ski area. Many of the slopes face south, preserving cold Andean powder.

Bariloche is an area filled with backcountry ski gems. Some of them are apparent; others      are diamonds in the rough waiting to be discovered. It is a special place that offers a little something for all levels of riders. Whether you are an adventurous skier or enjoy the mellower side of the sport, Bariloche has a special ski memory waiting to be made for everyone.

By Shanie Matthews