What makes wining and dining in Albuquerque such a pleasurable experience? It’s the dirt. That’s certainly not to say that the restaurants are dirty. I’m sure the city health code is well-adhered to in ABQ. What I’m talking about is the soil in which the fruits and vegetables of this region are grown makes a rich impact on the flavor of food of this region.
The soil in New Mexico’s growing regions is typically very organic, which contributes to the full flavor of its products. Combine that with cool evenings, hot days and a high elevation, and farmers, chefs and diners are in a gastronomical paradise.
New Mexican cuisine draws on the traditional foods from the pueblo tribes, such as corn, mutton and squash. Throw in more of New Mexico’s largest crops, such as pecans, dragon tongue beans, eggplant and purple potatoes, for a colorful and flavorful mix.
But nothing in New Mexico is considered edible without the inclusion of chilies. New Mexicans consume more chilies per capita than any other group in the United States. Be prepared when ordering in any dining establish to state your preference for red, green or Christmas peppers. Green is typically, but not always, the hotter of the choices. Prove your stamina and order green. You don’t want to look like a tourist, do you?
The official New Mexican chili is the Anaheim chili. It’s typically green, although a red strain has been developed in recent years. And how hot is it? Well, the heat of chilies is measured in Scoville units, something that indicates the impact on the tongues nerve endings. The world’s hottest chili is the habernos and it tops out at about 200,000 Scoville units. Compare that to a sweet bell pepper, which is a zero. The Anaheim chili clocks in in the range of 4500 to 5000 Scoville units. Can you handle it?
The conditions that make New Mexico a great place to grow chilies are also great for grapes. New Mexican viticulturists take great pride in pointing out that grapevines were first planted in New Mexico by Spanish settlers in 1629, making this the United States’ oldest wine-producing region. The cuttings were from Mission Grapes that are believed to be from the Spanish Monica grapes. Mission grapes are still grown in New Mexico today.
Like most of the United States, wine grapes were destroyed during Prohibition and it was not until the late 1970s that legislative and economic conditions in New Mexico made viticulture a profitable industry. Of the 38 wineries in the state, 13 of those are located in ABQ. Two wonderful wine festivals occur each year – one on Memorial Day and the other on Labor Day weekend.
So now that we know great cuisine is available in Albuquerque, where are some of the best places to find it?
Since 1962, descendents of Josephina Chavez-Griggs have been preparing traditional New Mexican foods at El Pinto, a restaurant now internationally know for its salsa. In addition to the city’s most extensive selection of tequila, El Pinto specializes in flame roasting chilies in open roasters on the patio each day from July through October.
El Pinto is credited as the first restaurant to really define New Mexican cuisine. It’s been featured on dozens of national television shows and was personally requested by President George W. Bush to cater a number of parties at the White House. There’s always some special event taking place at El Pinto, a fundraiser for something, a cook-off of some kind, a special concert by big name artists. Even when no special event is scheduled, folkloric dancers and musicians often stroll the patio and indoor dining areas.
In Old Town Albuquerque, one of the city’s oldest structures is now Casa de Ruiz. The home had been in the Ruiz family for more than 150 years until 1991 when Marie Coleman bought the empty building and turned it into the now very popular Church Street Café.
Known for its fabulous handmade tamales and green chile chicken soup, Church Street Cafe is also popular among ghost lovers because of the frequent appearances of Sarah Ruiz who was born in the house in the 1880s. Come linger over a cup of coffee, enjoy a bowl of natallas (Mexican pudding) and see if Sarah pays your table a visit.
But if tasting New Mexican wine is on your agenda for an ABQ getaway, put the St. Clair Winery on the itinerary. New Mexico’s largest winery has three locations, but the one in ABQ on Rio Grande Boulevard also has a fabulous bistro.
You’ll not be submerged in New Mexican cuisine here, but you will have your choice of Italian and American cuisine. French Onion soup with a touch of St. Clair cabernet-Zinfandel blend, is the restaurant’s signature item. But the Jackson Square Bread Pudding, served with a glass of Riesling, also a favorite.
Of course, most of the restaurants and all of the wineries have a small gift shop where their signature salsas, wines, and cookbooks are offered, a long lasting souvenir of New Mexican cuisine.
Article and Photography by Diana Lambdin Meyer
